Danube - Day 2: around Vienna (on foot and by subway)

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We spent the day walking around Vienna. First stop was the Vienna Boys Choir. The singing was good, but the whole experience was weird, from being put in a weird side room where we couldn't actually see what was going on, to an offhanded anti-Jewish line in the homily. After that, we spent a few hours at Stephansdom, which i remember fondly from a childhood trip to Vienna, and where we went up the tower and down the crypt with its bones from 12th century mass graves. After that we got a lunch of smørrebrød, and walked to Hundertwasserhaus, a conceptual apartment building with lots of interesting exterior art. Then several of us walked up to get our first views of the Danube itself, which we expect to be following for the rest of the trip. We walked around some after that, and had a late dinner at a vegetarian-adjacent place with lots of fun dishes and an interesting liqueur menu.

Walking to the Wiener Hofmusikkapelle

David shows off our concert seats, which are dark, crowded, and off-in-a-corner, but nonetheless exist!

Patterned wood floor at Wiener Hofmusikkappelle

Ceiling decoration at Wiener Hofmusikkappelle

The good seats

Ceiling of the chapel

Interior staircase at Wiener Hofmusikkappelle

Hanging out in the courtyard after the concert

Statue, and clock, and sundial, in the courtyard

Sculpture in an arch

Better-lit sculpture in opposing arch

domed ceiling of arch

pedestrian intersection in Vienna

clock tower in Vienna

building facade with sculptures

These people are not having a good day. It's not even clear that the lizard creature is having a good day.

Hanging out holding up this doorway with our heads. Just friends, though.

Corner in Vienna

Discotheque Fledermaus

Classical facade (window air conditioners original)

Coco Chanel welcomes you to Stephansdom

Okay, but, seriously, y'all are about to look at a lot of pictures of Stephansdom. And i'm sorry, but only a little, because i really like Stephansdom.

the corner detail!

the tower!

the arch top things!

exterior wall memorials

Arch detail at the entrance

the ceiling!

interior wall

iron gate detail

window at the front of the church

exterior window detail

exterior statue detail (note friendly pet lizard creature at feet)

looking up at a tower (note gargoyle)

exterior art

exterior window detail

exterior corner detail: note several gargoyles

wall mosaic on opposite building

i legitimately really like Stephansdom, but at least part of why all these photos are happening to you, is that we had to wait in line for quite a long time to climb the tower

corner of tower

a carriage hanging out in St. Stephen's Plaza

J.F. Kennedy Haus

outdoor wall relief at Stephansdom

previous wall decorations at Stephansdom

exterior wall decorations at Stephansdom

exterior wall decorations with pigeon

exterior wall relief

top of exterior wall relief

exterior wall relief with feathers


storm cellar stairs

exterior arch at Stephansdom

exterior column decorations

exterior window


gargoyle with roof

exterior mural and sculpture

roof with drainspout

manhole cover

exterior art

exterior art

round glass windows

exterior relief

more window glass

this is a plaque about Gerhard Klinkicht, whose claim to fame was not destroying Stephansdom during World War II

view up the tower

End of Stephansdom, with hexagonal towers

Sky above a cafe where we had a snack while waiting for our tower time

exterior of snack food

interior of snack food



informational sign about the tower

this is not a good photo of the central column of this stairwell, but i don't have a better one, and we've all been waiting awhile for us to start climbing this tower

Vienna out of the window from the tower

more Vienna and roofs from the tower

Bill in a stairwell

Scott in a stairwell

roofs visible from the tower

gargoyle visible from the tower

interior roof of the tower

door in tower

tower window cover

Stephansdom tower graffiti

tower sculpture

tower sculpture: girl vs critter

more blurry tower stairs

a bin of Stephansdom snow globes, included for nostalgia because i used to own a Stephansdom snow globe

information about Stephansdom roof tiles

Information explaining how the tower we are in was involved in firefighting. Look, it's the Siege of Vienna again!

Belvedere Palace, where we were walking yesterday, seen from the tower

more of Vienna from the tower

roofs, from the tower

is this roof not the best?

explanation of how the tower was used for fire watch (i think)

Brian, waiting to climb the tower

plaque commemorating the 13th century school by Stephansdom

I like what i like, and at the end of the day what i like is wooden doors set into geometric ceilings. Judge me if you must.

art inside Stephansdom

a display of suspended stones inside Stephansdom

memorial wall inside Stephansdom

a guy in a wall

stained glass window in Stephansdom

a less backlit view of the same window; you can see the colored glass tiles in the side window

interior of Stephansdom

ceiling of Stephansdom

another ceiling with a trapdoor

floor of Stephansdom

another memorial wall

we took a tour of the crypt, which was no photography allowed (and the photos wouldn't have come out much better than this one anyway), but which is definitely also something i remember touring when i went to Vienna as a kid

tour group leaving the crypt to the outdoors

One last exterior shot? The renovation of Stephansdom thinks you should consider a new phone

sidewalk outline of the chapel that used to be next to Stephansdom

With help from google translate, i now think these people were protesting the meat industry, though i'm not sure we got that at the time

Smørrebrød at Buffet Trzesniewski

a street in Vienna

not as good as yesterday's jacket

a small church

list of cats

another Vienna street

A very small car

Joe is also photographing this car

apparently this is the Museum of Applied Arts, which sounds neat, but we didn't go in

close-up of the facade

a street in Vienna

near the museum, i doubled back to take a picture of this 19th century mosaic of Athena

look a trolley

a street in Vienna

fish in a canal

the canal with the fish

okay, i think this is the window of a model train store with an unreasonable amount of reflection from the building opposite, but honestly i can't tell you

column-people on the building opposite

here's our approach to our final major tourist destination of the day, Hundertwasserhaus!

so basically it's an expressionist apartment building built in the early 1980s

here's the side facade: plants! vines! arches! little stone animals!

more trees and a small cobblestone hill thing

close-up of column

more cobblestones

more columns

...what even is this columntop art?

an archway decorated with lots of sparkly glass

Scott admires a tree in the shadow of a phone booth

every good column is topped by a child wrestling a gator thing

the rest of the fountain is okay too

looking up the apartment building wall

a courtyard of trees between apartment buildings

this elevator looks cool, but maybe also a little claustrophobic

more wall glass

information about Hundertwasserhaus

We went to the second-floor cafe for a drink, and spent some time puzzling over this overhead contraption

i assume i was so keen to photograph this tree because it's a sweet gum ball tree, but i admit you can't tell to look at it in this photo

Off-brand Spezi! I was so excited. It so did not live up to its potential.

bathroom graffiti wall at cafe

just a random wall lion

okay, here you can see the sweet gum balls, anyway

This is a plaque about the destruction of the Jewish community of Vienna in the early 15th century.

We crossed the Donaukanal, a channel off the Danube that flows through Vienna. Also, some birds.

A view down the canal

BDan, Joe, Lisa, Tim, and Scott, on the path along the canal

The path along the canal, apparently the Treppelweg

I do not have an explanation at this time

buildings in Vienna

Ah, i guess there's a Hundertwasser Museum near the house, which we passed, and whose back entrance this presumably is

some slightly ill-advised stairs down to the canal

graffiti under a bridge

graffiti art along the Donaukanal

bridge repair ladder

graffiti art along the Donaukanal

graffiti art along the Donaukanal

that's not how i spell my name, though

close-up on some political posters

graffiti-filled tunnel

some graffiti cat-creatures

floor tile art

building next to the Donaukanal

we did not attend this concert

a monument to Wilhelm von Tegetthoff by a train station in Vienna

detail of sea critters at base of monument

a person, a pike, a sea monster

look, bicycles!

ferris wheel in Vienna

the group considers this ad for Europe's most popular horse show

an oud, maybe? I don't know my lutes

large birch near the Danube

a weird seed pod situation

St. Francis of Assisi church, through the trees

tower of the church, with anonymous bird perched near the top

Toblerone-themed tagging

hi Bino!

the whole church again, seen from the bridge with the start of a sunset behind it

BDan looking off the Danube bridge

BDan taking a picture of the Danube

first full view of the Danube!

taggers remind us that we are on the Danube bridge

a bridge and windmills southeast along the Danube

I'm mad too!

the far side of the river... or is it? (Spoiler: it is not. That's Donauinsel)

looking back along the bridge at the rest of the group


the church is on the other side of some water now

heading back, outpaced by skateboarders

next stop, Budapest!

on the escalator after taking the subway back

don't carry heavy boxes on the escalator

a roof with some ornamentation

outside of a Kosher restaurant in Vienna

how great is Taborstraße

Kosher beer wall menu at Brendl, where we stopped for a beer

a beer

a street in Vienna

a building with a cool painted facade

the first floor of the painted building

bonus Calvin and Hobbes

a better beer at Schone-Perle, where we finally got dinner

dinner at Schone-Perle

drinks menu at Schone-Perle. My notes say i liked the grappa and the Vogelbeere

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